Jack Be Littles are the beloved mini pumpkins, not full size.

PLANTING SEEDS
Info
USDA Hardiness Zone
Pumpkins grow as an annual in zones 3 to 9. This is a warm season crop. Plant in early spring.
If you live in zones 10 or above, start seeds indoors late summer and move outside in early fall to avoid intense summer heat.
A USDA hardiness zone map shows you the average annual extreme minimum temperature in your area. This helps you know which plants can survive there.
FULL SUNLIGHT
Jack Be Little pumpkins are total sun lovers! It is very importtant to keep this plant in direct sun all day.
Place a pumpkin plant in the sunniest spot possible to ensure its fruit grows bright and orange.
8+ HOURS OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT DAILY
Too little sun will result in a weak plant and slow pumpkin production.
Watch out for leggy growth and a leafy plant with very few blossoms. These are indications that your pumpkin plant needs more sunlight!
KEEP SOIL MOIST
Pumpkins are especially thirsty plants, so keep this plant well-watered. On average, it will need at least one inch of water per week and more during heat waves.
MODERATE HUMIDITY
Indoor humidity or normal outdoor air is typically fine for pumpkin plants.
Always aim to water at the base of the plant - not overhead. It is prone to fungal issues if its leaves stay wet. In humid climates, good airflow and base watering are extra important to avoid powdery mildew.
SOIL
Jack Be Little pumpkins need rich, nutrient dense soil that retains some moisture.
The best store bough option is a vegetable or garden potting mix since it’s already formulated for edible plants like pumpkins.
Pumpkins specifically LOVE a nutrient boost. Consider mixing in a bit of worm castings or compost to its soil.
WORM CASTINGS
Looks like fine, dark brown granules like moist coffee grounds. This is a natural fertilizer produced by worms that provides nutrients to the soil.
COMPOST
Looks like rich, dark brown crumbly soil with an earthy smell. This is a natural fertilizer made from decomposed organic matter that provides nutrients to the soil.
POLLINATION
If growing outdoors, let the bees do their thing!
To grow a pumpkin, a bee needs to transfer pollen from a male pumpkin flower to a female pumpkin flower. In a garden, this happens naturally with pollinators buzzing around.
Pollination looks quite different if you are growing pumpkins in an enclosed space. Make sure to have a cotton swab or paintbrush handy because you will be hand-pollinating!
HOW TO HAND POLLINATE:
Use a cotton swab or small, clean paintbrush to collect pollen from the center of a male pumpkin flower. Transfer it directly to the center of a female flower. For best results, try to do this in the morning when the flowers are freshly open.
If the female flower opens and closes without growing into a pumpkin, it is likely the pollination was unsuccessful. Try again with the next female flower that opens!
HARVESTING
ALWAYS USE CLEAN SCISSORS OR PRUNING SHEARS
You can start harvesting your mini pumpkins at about 85 to 100 days after planting. You can expect 8 to 10 mini pumpkins per plant if pollinated correctly.
Look for these signs of ripeness before picking:
• Skin is completely orange
• Rind is hard when pressed
• Stem has dried and turned brown
IDENTIFY THE PICKING SPOT
Cut the stem leaving at least 2 to 3 inches of stem attached to the pumpkin.
Never break or twist the stem! A damaged stem leads to rot and can ultimately shorten the life of your pumpkin plant.
CURING FRESH PUMPKINS
This is an important step you don't want to skip.
After harvesting your adorable miniature pumpkins, place them in a warm, dry spot with good air circulation for one week. Do not stack them!
This curing process allows the skin to toughen up and creates a protective barrier to prevent rot. The color may deepen and the stem will to dry out. Curing can also help heal any scratches from harvesting before those blemishes become entry points for bacteria.
All good things and well worth the wait!
COMMON ISSUES
FUZZY PATCHES
This is likely powdery mildew which is a common fungal issue for pumpkin leaves if left in humid or crowded conditions.
Make sure to water at the base of the plant. This helps avoid water getting on the leaves. Watering in the morning also helps leaves dry throughout the day. Remove affected leaves.
YELLOWING LEAVES
A sign of overwatering or nutrient deficiency.
Remove affected leaves. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out. Adjust your watering schedule for this plant. Boost soil nutrients with a scoop of compost or worm castings.
LEGGY
A definite sign of not enough sunlight.
If you notice your pumpkin plant looking leggy and weak, it's time to move it to a brighter spot.
This plant needs a full 8 hours of direct sunlight daily!
NO FRUIT GROWING
If your pumpkin plant continues to flower, but no pumpkins are developing, then pollination has not been successful.
If grown outdoors: plant pollinator-friendly flowers like zinnias, lavender or sunflowers around your pumpkin plant. This will help attract more bees to pollinate the pumpkin flowers.
If grown in an enclosed area: hand-pollinate by using a cotton swab or small, clean paintbrush to collect pollen from the center of a male pumpkin flower. Transfer it directly to the center of a female flower. For best results, try to do this in the morning when the flowers are freshly open.
If flowers are dying off, then pollination was not successful. Keep trying when new flowers appear until you see a the beginnings of a baby pumpkin!
ROTTING ON VINE
Pumpkins that have soft spots or are rotting before they are ripe is often caused by a broken or damaged stem, overwatering or the fruit is sitting directly on wet soil.
The best way out of this is with prevention! You can place a small piece of cardboard or patch of straw under developing pumpkins to help keep them dry. Always handle the pumpkins gently and never break the stem. Always use sharp scissors or pruning shears when needed.
Rotted pumpkins should be discarded immediately.
PESTS
Sometimes issues can be the result of a pest infestation. Watch out for these creepy crawlers:
Aphids
Cucumber Beetles (likely the cause if you notice chewed leaves)
Fungus Gnats
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WORM CASTINGS