Pro tip if growing from seed:
Before planting, consider placing lavender seeds on a wet paper towel in a sealed bag and into the freezer for 2 weeks. In the wild, lavender seeds stay scattered on the ground through winter and wait for the warmth of spring to start sprouting.
Freezing the seeds is said to trick them into thinking they experienced winter! This method has shown to improve the chances of more lavender sprouts.
GROW YOUR OWN FOOD
USDA Hardiness Zone
Lavender grows as an perennial in zones 5 to 9. In zones below 5, it is best grown as an annual or brought indoors for the winter. This is a mild season crop. Plant in early spring or fall. If you live zones 9 or above, plant in the fall to avoid heat stress.
Tap to Find Your Zone
A USDA hardiness zone map shows you the average annual extreme minimum temperature in your area. This helps you know which plants can survive there.
FULL SUNLIGHT
When it comes to high heat or harsh sun, lavender should still thrive! However, if it is hot and humid, it could be at risk of fungal issues.
6+ HOURS OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT DAILY
Lavender does not respond well to low light! Without enough sun, it will get leggy and pale, produce fewer flowers, and will not be as fragrant.
FIND YOUR LIGHT
Take a moment to note which direction the windows face in your space. Then tap around the room below to see how the light hits throughout the day.
1
2
3
4
SOUTH-FACING WINDOW
⊹ Highest amount of sunlight ⊹
⊹ Consistent light all day ⊹
⊹ Perfect for "full sun" plants ⊹
EAST-FACING WINDOW
⊹ Soft morning sunlight ⊹
⊹ Avoids harsh afternoon rays ⊹
⊹ Perfect for low to indirect light plants ⊹
⚠︎ May not be bright enough for "full sun" plants
WEST-FACING WINDOW
⊹ Brightest in the afternoon ⊹
⊹ Warm, golden hour glow ⊹
⊹ Great for indirect-sun lovers ⊹
⚠︎ Can overheat sensitive plants
NORTH-FACING WINDOW
⊹ No direct sunlight ⊹
⊹ Avoids harsh afternoon rays ⊹
⊹ Perfect for shade-tolerant plants ⊹
⚠︎ Can be too dim for most houseplants. If this is your only light source, consider using a grow light for your sun-loving plants!
1
2
3
4
KEEP SOIL DRY
This is drought-tolerant plant, so you can go longer periods without watering and it will still thrive.
Give it a thorough soak and then let the soil dry out completely between waterings. Overwatering lavender is the biggest no-no. It prefers living on the drier side.
LOW HUMIDITY
Indoor humidity is usually fine as long as it has good airflow.
Keep lavender out of humid conditions and try to water at the base of the plant to avoid wetting its leaves.
SOIL
Lavender needs soil that drains fast and stays dry.
The best store-bought option is a cactus and succulent mix since it is already formulated for drought-loving herbs like lavender.
Avoid anything labeled "moisture control" or "moisture retention”.
Want to make your own?
Mix equal parts standard potting mix + any gritty ingredient. Perlite or coarse sand work great!
PERLITE
PERLITE
Looks like tiny white popcorn bits mixed into the soil. Improves drainage and prevents waterlogging.
COARSE SAND
Looks like gritty and chunky beach sand. Like perlite, it improves drainage and prevents waterlogging.
HARVESTING
ALWAYS USE CLEAN SCISSORS OR HANDS
You can start harvesting your lavender when about half the buds on each stalk are open. This ensures you are harvesting for the best scent!
It is important to trim lavender after its bloom, whether you plan to use it or not. Avoiding this pruning stage can result in woody, leggy stems.
IDENTIFY THE PRUNING SPOT
Avoid cutting from the woody base. Lavender can be slow to regrow from old wood.
Trim only the soft, green growth into a rounded mound.
Tap here for a diagram!
DRYING FLOWERS
Bundle & Hang: Gather small bundles of 8 to 10 stems and tie them with twine or a rubber band.
Hang Upside Down: Choose a cool, dark, well-ventilated spot. Let them dry for about 1 to 2 weeks (until the buds are crisp and crumble easily when pinched).
COMMON ISSUES
YELLOWING
A sign of overwatering or poor drainage of the pot. Soil that remains soggy can lead to root rot.
Remove affected leaves. Dry out soil completely (1-5 days). Adjust your watering schedule for this plant.
If problem persists and/or you suspect root rot: remove from pot, trim away dead mushy roots, and repot in fresh soil.
WILTING
⊹ SOIL CHECK ⊹
Soggy: Likely overwatered or poor drainage. Ensure your pot has drainage holes. Allow soil to dry out a bit. Remember, lavender wants to stay dry!
Bone dry and in full sun: Needs a drink. Water thoroughly to help perk it back up a bit.
⊹ STRESS ⊹
Temperature changes or repotting can also cause “droopy leaf” stress. Keep its conditions stable and give it time to adjust. Some afternoon shade may be helpful if you are experiencing a heat wave.
WOODY GROWTH
Likely due to not enough sunlight.
Lavender naturally gets woody at the base as it matures.
However, if you notice your lavender is excessively woody or looking leggy, try moving it to a sunnier spot.
Bonus tip: make sure to trim lavender after it blooms. Focusing on soft, green growth - not the woody stems. This helps redirect the plant’s energy into fresh growth.
DULL, GRAY LEAVES
A sign of a fungal issue due to high humidity conditions or poor airflow.
Remove affected areas.
Give your lavender some more breathing room. Trim away dense, crowded growth and make sure to not crowd with other plants.
Avoid getting the leaves wet! Water at the base of the plant.
PESTS
Sometimes issues can be the result of a pest infestation. Watch out for these creepy crawlers:
Aphids
Mealybugs
Whiteflies
