JALAPEÑO

Moderate Care

Black sun icon with rays on a white background

Full Sunlight

Keep Soil Moist

Not Pet Safe

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PLANTING SEEDS

1

Create a seed hole in the soil (about 1/4"). Take 2-3 jalapeño seeds and sprinkle them into the seed hole.

2

Lightly cover the seed hole with soil and water the soil until evenly moist.

3

Set your seed pot in the sun and keep the soil moist until you see sprouts. Then follow the care guide below.

Jalapeño seeds germinate within 7-14 days. They can take up to 21 days to germinate, so don't give up on them too quickly!

Jalapeños can technically grow as a perennial plant in frost-free zones 9 to 11. However, it is typically grown as an annual everywhere else. This is a warm season crop. Plant in early spring. 

Start seeds indoors 8 to 10 weeks before your last frost, then move seedlings outside once nights stay reliably above 60°F. Jalapeños are true heat-lovers and rely on all day warmth to grow.

A USDA hardiness zone map shows you the average annual extreme minimum temperature in your area. This helps you know which plants can survive there.

USDA Plant Hardiness Zone Map

FULL SUNLIGHT

Cartoon sun character holding a flower and a potted plant with a cloud in the background.

More sun = more peppers and more spice! Make sure to keep your jalapeño plant in the sunniest spot possible.

Although a jalapeño plant is naturally used to the desert sun of Mexico, it still needs protection from extreme heat. A little afternoon shade can help protect the peppers from getting scorched by the sun.

8+ HOURS OF DIRECT SUNLIGHT DAILY

Not enough sun means leggy growth and fewer flowers. This is the plant’s way of telling you: more sunlight please!

KEEP SOIL MOIST

Cartoon water droplet character with a watering can and flowers on a white background

A jalapeño plant needs consistent moisture, so keep this plant well-watered. On average, it will need at least one inch of water per week and more during heat waves. 

When the top inch feels dry, it's time to water!

MODERATE HUMIDITY

Indoor humidity or normal outdoor air is typically fine for a jalapeño plant.

Always aim to water at the base of the plant - not overhead. It can be prone to fungal issues if its leaves stay wet. Water at the base in the morning so the leaves have time to dry out throughout the day.

SOIL

Jalapeños need a rich soil that retains some moisture but still drains well.

The best store bough option is a vegetable or garden potting mix since it’s already formulated for edible plants like pumpkins.

For a nutrients boost, mix in a bit of worm castings or compost to the soil. 

WORM CASTINGS

Looks like fine, dark brown granules like moist coffee grounds. This is a natural fertilizer produced by worms that provides nutrients to the soil.

COMPOST

Looks like rich, dark brown crumbly soil with an earthy smell. This is a natural fertilizer made from decomposed organic matter that provides nutrients to the soil.

HARVESTING

ALWAYS USE CLEAN SCISSORS OR PRUNING SHEARS

Jalapeños are ready to pick once they're about 3 inches long and have their classic deep, glossy green color. They are typically ready to pick within 70 to 85 days of transplanting. 

Leave them on the plant a little longer and they'll ripen to red, with a bit more sweetness and heat.

IDENTIFY THE PICKING SPOT

Snip the stem about half an inch above the pepper with clean scissors or pruning shears. 

Try to avoid just pulling it off since this can damage the stem and any peppers growing nearby.

THE FRUIT THAT BITES BACK

A single jalapeño pepper ranges from 2,500 to 8,000 Scoville Heat Units. It is hotter than a poblano pepper, but much milder than other popular peppers like serrano, cayenne, habanero, and ghost pepper. 

Capsaicin is the name of chemical compound that produces the spicy sensation in chili peppers. Capsaicin is oil-based so plain water won't rinse it off your hands. Always wear gloves when cutting jalapeños to avoid getting the capsaicin on your skin, and keep hands away from eyes and face! Always wash with soap after handling. 

COMMON ISSUES

BLOSSOM END ROT

A soft, black spot on the bottom of your jalapeño peppers could indicate blossom end rot (BER). Once your jalapeños have BER, there is no way to reverse it.

BER is a common physiological disorder among some nightshade plants. It is due to a calcium deficiency from inconsistent waterings or poor drainage.

Calcium from the soil is absorbed into the plant through ample moisture. So in the event of a drought, or inconsistent watering cycles, the plant's ability to absorb calcium is reduced. This lack of calcium appears as a soft, rotted patch at the bottom of the fruit. 

You can cut off the blossom end rot and safely eat the rest of the pepper. However, it is known to not have the best taste. 

The absolute BEST way to prevent BER is to keep your watering cycle as consistent as possible, making sure your jalapeño plant is watered thoroughly until harvest time.

Some people choose to add calcium to the soil at the sight of their first plant with BER to prevent other fruits from having it. There is conflicting evidence of this being effective at all. Most experts will say the only way to avoid blossom end rot is to keep nightshade plants consistently watered.

WILTING

A sign of dehydration, too much heat or a sudden temperature drop.

Give it some water and/or move to partial shade during midday sun.

YELLOWING LEAVES

A sign of overwatering or nutrient deficiency.

Remove affected leaves. Allow the top inch of soil to dry out. Adjust your watering schedule for this plant. Boost soil nutrients with a scoop of compost or worm castings.

LEGGY

A definite sign of not enough sunlight.

If you notice your pumpkin plant looking leggy and weak, it's time to move it to a brighter spot.

This plant needs a full 8 hours of direct sunlight daily!

NO FRUIT GROWING

If your jalapeño plant continues to flower, but no fruits/peppers are developing, then pollination has not been successful.

Since a jalapeño plant is self-pollinating, this issue usually comes down to temperature. Extreme heat (above 90°F) or cool nights (below 55°F) can stop pollen from doing its job. Even as a self-pollinator, without wind or bees to help move the pollen between flowers, blooms can drop before ever turning into peppers. 

In a heat wave, give your plant a little afternoon shade. On cool nights, bring container plants in or cover them up. 

Try to give the flowers a gentle shake or dab them with a small paintbrush around midday to help pollen transfer.

PESTS

Sometimes issues can be the result of a pest infestation. Watch out for these creepy crawlers:
Aphids
Hornworms
Whiteflies


BLOSSOM END ROT

WILTING

YELLOWING LEAVES

LEGGY

NO FRUIT GROWING

PESTS

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